Plus: Summer to Winter in a Week

In our last blog, Steven detailed our latest crazy plan. In preparation, we know we need to get used to walking and walking and walking. You already know about our death marches. A couple of weekends ago, we decided on a modified version, over to the National Mall (sort of a death stroll). Our ever-reliable Insta ads had been touting an International Festival and we figured that was as good a destination as any.

Being us, we didn’t bother to check exactly where it was, so we initially overshot, but made our way back to what I would describe to our Skokie friends as the Skokie Festival of Cultures on steroids. There was a stage with dances and music of different cultures and a bunch of food trucks. The food smelled delicious, but it was 11 a.m. so we didn’t partake.

Instead, we wandered a bit and then headed back to the house. It was still a beautiful summer day, something that seems a distant dream today (just another 6 mile wander).

We spent the week trying not to worry about the shutdown. Not because we are worried about the state of our democracy – that’s a different blog – but because we had reservations at Shenandoah National Park for our anniversary weekend (which would have been closed if the government shut down). Somehow Congress managed a 45-day reprieve, so we were on! Neither of us had ever been there and it was allegedly going to be the peak of leaf season. Of course, climate change had different ideas, but it was still beautiful.

We arrived Thursday afternoon, after a stop at REI, because you always need something at REI. By the time we got settled in our adequate room (double bed, really?) at Big Meadows Lodge, it was too late for much of a hike, so we walked the mile over to the visitor’s center to ask about hikes for the weekend.

I love park rangers! They are knowledgeable and friendly. Plus, if you ever need help, they will be there. We got ideas for two long hikes and figured we’d make a last-minute decision on which to do. Then we hiked up the quarter-mile to a beautiful lookout (which Steven saw in the pictures I took from the edge) and went to check out the lodge common area. We sat on the deck with a bottle of wine and toasted to 5 years of wedding bliss (to each other no less!).

I won’t say much about the food in the dining room except that our peanut butter, jelly and Frito sandwiches were much better (always remember to put your Fritos into the sandwich just before eating – if you add them before the hike they get soggy).

Friday, we decided on a hike to Rapidan Camp, which was Pres. Hoover’s summer retreat. It was supposed to be about a 7-mile loop (notice that I said “supposed to be”) that included Lewis Falls. We drove a couple of miles to the trailhead and set off. Unfortunately, we set off on the wrong trail, going in the wrong direction. Folks, I suggest that after you get directions from the ranger, you follow them. We were hiking up and up and up and ran into a couple and their sister. After chatting for a bit, they pointed out to us that we were headed in the wrong direction if we wanted to see either the falls or the camp. Hmmm. After a scan of the map, we realized that they did in fact know where they were, while we did not (not an unusual experience for us). We decided to head back down from the lovely viewpoint we had reached and continue on to Rapidan in time for lunch.

Here is another point I should make: If you drive up to one of the highest points in the park, it is likely that you will be hiking down and then up. I prefer the opposite. All the way down to Rapidan, all I could think about was that I was going to have to climb back up. We arrived, peacefully ate lunch and then were joined by a volunteer tour guide and a German couple who had shipped their car from Germany (somewhat disappointingly it was a Toyota Landcruiser, not a Mercedes G 6 AMG) and were planning to drive all the way through to Punta Arenas (and they started in Halifax, Nova Scotia). Wow!

The tour was interesting and the hike back up was much easier than we thought it would be. Hooray!

For dinner, we went to the tap room, where they had pizzas and sandwiches and a singer with a guitar. He played some of his own stuff, but also a mix of John Prine, Lyle Lovett, Johnny Cash and, hmm, Steven, remember anyone else (sorry, you know you can’t rely on me to remember anything)? He was fine and we chatted with other couples who came to sit near us. A pleasant evening.

Walking back to our room, only a few feet away, we realized the wind was blowing in a cold front. Groan. Saturday morning was rainy, so we drank our coffee in the lodge and amused ourselves with people and dog watching. Our original plan was to go to Luray Caverns because we thought it was going to rain all day, but once we realized it would clear up, we decided to modify the second hike to several waterfalls – since we had accidentally traversed a part of it the day before – and save the save Luray for the way back home. The rain stopped and we headed out in the chill.

Once again, we went down first and I have to say that we are pretty spoiled. I loved hiking in the forest when it was quiet and the leaves looked pretty, but the trail got crowded near the parking areas and having seen the truly majestic Iguazu Falls, it was hard to get excited about Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River Falls. We decided to take the steep path up because it was shorter, but Steven thought we were going on a 4-mile jaunt and it turned into a 7-mile uphill death march. He was not happy (minor understatement).

We got back, rested, and spent another relaxing night at the lodge followed by a very mediocre meal. Steven does recommend the blackberry ice cream pie.

Sunday’s adventure was Luray Caverns. We almost turned around and left because it just looks like a horribly tacky tourist attraction and I was sure it was going to be disappointing. I am really glad I didn’t give in to that impulse although you do both enter and exit through the gift shop. According to the brochure, it is the largest cavern in the eastern US. (In case you were wonder, which I was, geologists say there’s no difference between a cavern and a cave, HowStuffWorks reports.) The 1 1/4-mile walk is full of amazing formations. Definitely go if you happen to be in the middle-of-nowhere Virginia or even in DC. It’s only a couple of hours drive.

We capped off our anniversary weekend with a surprisingly delicious lunch at Khukuri Nepali Cuisine in Front Royal. It was so good that we ordered another meal each to eat at home later (in addition to bringing home 1/2 the lunch as leftovers).

P.S.: I say we capped it off there because that is a more inspired ending that trying to park at a mall in Tyson’s Corner and then wandering said mall looking for the Levi’s store. Who says in-person shopping is dead? This place was jammed with people desperate to buy the same stuff as their friends. Yuck!

P.P.S.: I also visited the National Botanic Gardens with my friend Chris. Hi Chris! And got a new crown using Phil’s old company’s technology. Hi Phil!