Susan AKA Sue, AKA Aunt Susie: I am a former journalist and teacher at semi-loose ends who is still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow up. I am restless and determined. I love a challenge.
Things I like: photography, yoga, mountains, a great book, exploring, music.
Things I am not so keen on: standing still, gray days, coconut
I know we’ve been a little lax with the blog, but no sooner did we get settled in Washington, D.C., than we were packing again for a short side jaunt to NY. Yay! We do love New York. What’s not to love?
Anyway, we haven’t done much in the way of exploring DC since our main goal was to see our beautiful, smart, adorable granddaughter. We are staying in Petworth, which is in northwest DC. A couple of short wanders have revealed many Latino restaurants we’ve yet to try, but are eager to. We are also close to the Metro, which makes the neighborhood more desirable to us since we can get around without driving. More on Petworth and DC when we have a chance to explore.
And then we were off to NY.
A sidebar on train travel
We took Amtrak from Union Station to Penn Station, which is great because train stations are in the middle of cities and airports are not. We were able to walk to our hotel; however, I would swear that the train made as much lateral movement as forward motion. Good thing Steven had taken the train not long ago and he warned me to wear my motion-sickness patch. The trains in Europe are a lot smoother — and faster.
We are staying in Murray Hill at the Kitano, which is a lovely hotel except that it is Japanese and the Japanese are still very Covid-nervous so all the restaurants and the jazz bar are closed. Oh well. It’s not like we were going to eat here, but jazz would have been nice.
Why wouldn’t we eat at the hotel? you ask. Because there was pizza to be had for lunch when we arrived and bagels to munch for breakfast.
Saturday we did what we usually do and took a death march from 38th up through Central Park and all the way to 94th Street. Then, we decided we wanted ice cream. I had seen vegan soft serve on 30th, so down we went. We hiked about 12 miles, but it was a beautiful day and we didn’t have any plans.
That evening, we met Steven’s aunt and uncle (Hi Uncle David) at a very delicious Italian restaurant uptown, Sistina. The food was amazing and we always enjoy their company. Because we hadn’t gotten enough exercise, we walked back (just another couple of miles).
Sunday was drizzly, so we decided to see “Nope.” Of course, we walked to the theater, enjoyed the movie (good, not great) and walked back. We hadn’t had any Chinese food, so we thought, “Why not walk to Chinatown?” Of course! On the way, we passed McSorley’s, which was teeming with police and firefighters commemorating 9/11. (New York wasn’t as somber as I expected. We saw a parade on Saturday, which we thought was probably a commemoration and was full of union workers, but we weren’t downtown, so I am sure there was more going on there).
We stopped at a bar around the corner from McSorley’s called Cooper’s in the East Village for a drink and to watch the New York Giants (who, despite their best efforts, managed to win). We ended up having a great chat with a couple of firefighters and a niece of one of them. Before we knew it, it was after 8. We thought, “What the heck, we’ll keep walking to Chinatown,” … but it was raining and we were hungry, so we hopped the subway and had Chinese at Chili. around the block from the hotel. All’s well that ends well.
Monday was a work day followed by the Mets game (We had 4th row seats right behind the Mets’ dugout!). Man do I hate the Cubs! 5-2 sounds closer than it was. Bases loaded twice and nothing to show for it. Sitting next to their fans at Citi Field was worse! Even worse, they weren’t even from Chicago, but Utah of all places. But, Citi Field is fabulous and I can’t wait to go back. Let’s go Mets!
London sort of snuck up on us. We didn’t do much planning because the plan was really just to spend time with Steven’s daughter and (harshly) judge her partner. Since we didn’t really consider London as a place, we were a bit at loose ends.
We’ve noticed a pattern in which it takes us about a week to settle in. We’re only here for 10 days, so it’s a bit awkward. It’s not a vacation, but there’s a lot of eating out involved. Luckily, the heat wave broke and it’s only rained once.
We’re staying near her in East London, where I’ve never really been before. If you love hipsters, this is the place for you. Expensive coffee, fancy baked goods, “elevated” cuisine, a street food market — this area has it all. I’m not going to deny that we have had some delicious food or that I didn’t enjoy Broadway Market. During the week it’s a fruit and veg market, mostly, but on Saturdays it’s full of food stalls with almost any kind of food you might fancy. Of course, merchants are also selling stuff, but since we live by the 23 kilo rule, we don’t much look at stuff (except for Frida Kahlo socks and a book of cocktails inspired by feminist women (no, it’s not redundant — there are feminist men out there).
Broadway Market was our introduction to Abi’s neighborhood and it was jammed. After all, it was one of the few days in London when you needed neither a jacket nor an umbrella. Adding to the enjoyment, we walked along Regents Canal (below) to get there. Steven and I have taken several walks along the canal, which is just a few blocks from our AirBnB. The canal runs 8.6 miles, but we haven’t walked the entire length, yet. It is lovely, if overrun by bicyclists who are about as polite as American cyclists, which is to say about 20 percent announce their presence before they overtake you.
The most traditional activity we have participated in (besides beer and cider) has been eating a Sunday roast at the Hunter S. pub. Luckily, they have caved to vegetarian pressure and have a delicious nut roast. I can’t attest to the quality of the huge slabs of meat, but apparently they were yummy (I can. They were delicious). The place is funny because the bathrooms are decorated with pictures I can’t show in a family blog (at least not in the prudish US), but if you ask me nicely, I will send you a couple.
The food tour continued at Dishoom, a small chain of “elevated” (I warned you) Indian cuisine. I had stumbled upon the Covent Garden branch when I was here with Jake four years ago. It was delicious then and the Shoreditch edition was delicious again.
One caveat about hipsterville: Be prepared to wait. No one moves quickly and no one eats at home (and she hasn’t mentioned the twenty minute wait for coffee on Sunday at the Dusty Knuckle).
Off the food tour, onto the walking tour
Steven is busy keeping me in the lifestyle to which I would like to become accustomed and I had some time, so I signed up for a tour of Brick Lane through Unseen Tours. All their tour guide have been affected by homelessness and they offer a unique view of different parts of London. I chose the Brick Lane tour because it was close and I didn’t really know anything about East London.
Pete has been leading tours for eight years, but had been homeless in East London. A sheltered housing program helped get him back on his feet and he now has his own flat. He showed us around Brick Lane, telling stories about the street art and immigration history of the area along with discussing homelessness, government programs, and the obstacles to getting and keeping people off the streets.
BTW: Although Jack the Ripper struck here, Pete explained that he finds it disrespectful to sensationalize violence against women, especially because it’s on the uptick again. You go Pete!
The images below are all from the tour.
Brick Lane is now predominantly Bengali, but the French, Irish, and Ashkenazi Jews have all populated the area, hence the Brick Lane Jamme Masjid (mosque) dating from 1743 that was once a temple that was once a Protestant church and the Christ Church Primary School, which sports a star of David.
The tour ended with a somewhat underwhelming Banksy. A pink Triumph GT6 sits atop a wall that was once part of an Overground bridge. It’s encased in yellowed Plexiglas and where once there sat a ghost driver, nothing remains. If you still want to see it, you can find it at the Truman Brewery. Pete said that the bridge construction company took possession of the car and wall when they demolished the old bridge and when they realized what they had, they sold it for £1 million. I don’t recall how he said that it ended up back on the street, but I can ask him.
The street art below is from a retaining wall and building just off Brick Lane.
On Saturday, we said goodbye to Seuss the cat (and Paris) again, but we didn’t let a moment go to waste in those last few days, so I’m going to pretend we’re still there and save London for the next installment.
On Thursday, we took what we thought would be our last long stroll in Paris. We headed back to Ground Control to meet the woman who is responsible for kicking off all this craziness: my bestie, Newman. You may recall that she lives in Armes, outside the booming metropolis of Clamecy, in Burgundy, where we stayed last year. She came to town so I could at least spend a few hours with her before we headed out and we wanted to meet her somewhere near where she was taking the train back.
Steven and I took a very minor detour on the way, which was mostly a walk along the Seine, to see the Village de St. Paul. Well, I saw the sign and curiosity got the best of me, as per usual. Totally worth the three blocks extra. You can even see the remains of the ancient walls of Philippe Auguste. It’s full of art and antique dealers and while Steven thought it was a little too hipster (wait till you hear about where we are in London), I thought it was picture-worthy and a new discovery. I love a new discovery.
After lunch, Steven left to get some work done (boo! but someone has to pay for the madness) and Newman and I walked along what she described as Paris’ High Line. It’s much more tranquil than that (of course, it was August), but I also say that because it’s lined with gardens and even a park.
Before we bid adieu, I even got to see Newman’s wife Sylvia for a minute. Next time, more together time!
Our last day in Paris (so sad) turned out to be fabulous! We didn’t plan on a long walk on Friday, but, well, we can’t seem to help it. Last year, we didn’t make it to the Musée de l’Orangerie. It’s a tres popular place right in the Jardin des Tuileries, so book in advance. It’s well worth it. The museum is famous for the two oval rooms containing Claude Monet’s Water Lilies cycle. Wow! I could have spent hours looking.
(My zen moment of the blog: If you go, put your phone down and look at the paintings instead of taking pictures of them and walking by or taking pictures of yourself standing in front of the art. Truly look at the art! Live in the moment! And now back to our regularly scheduled nonsense.)
The rest of the museum houses other works by Monet and paintings by Picasso, Cézanne, Matisse, Modigliani, and Renoir among others. We got the audio guide, which was very helpful but also a bit overwhelming as it had information on ALL the paintings and most were at least a minute long. The museum isn’t huge, but we have about a 90-minute limit on absorbing art, which was just about the right amount of time.
After the museum, we decided that, having not even had a croissant, we had to at least have crepes. We wandered of in not completely the direction back and hit Le P’tit Breton. The place is tiny, but we just missed the dejeuner rush, so we got a seat pretty quickly and couldn’t resist the menu d’jour of savory, drink, and dessert. Yum! Highly recommend.
From there, we walked back, relaxed and packed and made a plan for dinner. As you know, many places in Paris are closed in August, but we picked a Vietnamese restaurant the Googs said was open. Once again, the Googs steered us wrong, but we had passed a Thai and Japanese place on the way there. We first opted for Thai, but it had started drizzling and the place had no AC, so Japanese it was! Good food, good company, good city and a beautiful Parisian night in which to walk back.
I say that not just because I love having you here, but because we have learned one incredibly valuable lesson that has made our travel easier and allows us to make small connections with other people: Learn how to say “Thank you” in the native tongue. “Hello” is great also, but thank goes a long way.
Today, we experienced both ends of the Parisian spectrum when the apartment cleaner unexpectedly showed up. Either we weren’t told he was coming or we forgot. No matter. We were about to do yoga, but quickly shifted to petit dejeuner (my favorite meal mostly because it consists of coffee and sometimes a cute cookie or, if you’re really lucky, a little cup of chocolate mousse).
We went for a little stroll and passed three or four cafes. We randomly picked one and, as is the custom, sat down at an outdoor table. Then … nothing. The waiter was inside setting up tables. OK, this is France, service is slow, it’s beautiful and we’re in no hurry. She came outside to set up the tables out there. She definitely saw us but still … nothing. We tried to shrug it off, but after 15 minutes we got up, walked a few feet and sat down at a different cafe.
This time, Steven did go it and make ourselves known, but this waiter was smiling. He came out almost immediately and took our order (cafe latte e cafe). The waiter asked us something and Steven answered, “Si.” We are having trouble learning Spanish while we try to remember some rudimentary French. I said, “oui.” The waiter said, “Si, oui, yes” and then something in French which I took to mean “It’s all good,” and we laughed.
So, you’re just about at the end of your patience in finding out what all this has to do with saying thank you overseas, but never fear, here it comes: In due course, our coffees arrived and we said, “Merci, gracias.” Then the waiter started to say “your welcome” in several languages. We kept this up as we paid l’addition as well, leading him to ask us where we were from. Not a deep conversation, but a connection where one might not have happened.
Here’s the list of the ones we have so far:
There will be a lot of gracias in our future, I’m sure, but I’d love to expand my “thank you” list. Please is also a good one to know. Feel free to add to the list, s’il vous plait.
We crammed a lot into a 12-day trip. We are both tired and happy. I forgot how exhausting tourist travel can be. Don’t want to miss anything!
Speaking of that, as I mentioned, Saturday, we were going to head to Sintra. I had read that the train leaves every 30 minutes. Hmmm, that turned out not to be the case. It may be true that there are trains every 30 minutes, but they leave from different stations. They only leave once an hour from Rossio station, where we were. Two bits of advice here: Use the machine to buy your ticket instead of waiting on the long tourist line. You can also buy you ticket in advance. Since it is a commuter train, it’s good whenever you ride.
We had just missed a train, so instead of waiting 55 minutes, we decided to hoof it up to the Castelo de São Jorge, which we could see from our AirBnB. We had a 5:0 food and drink tour and we didn’t want to rush it. You know me, so you know I would hoof it, but you don’t have to. There are elevators that take you a lot of the way if you know how to find them. Or the tram 9which we didn’t take at all) or cabs, which are pretty cheap in Lisboa. The castle is a 5th Century Visigoth fortress that was expanded by the Moors in the 11th Century.
Sometimes a surprise can be more stunning than something you were looking forward to: no expectations. That was the case here. Aside from the fabulous views, there were peacocks everywhere. We wandered for about an hour or two and then figured it was time for lunch. The Portuguese eat a lot of cod and one of their iconic snacks is a cod cake. We stopped at the touristy place at the top of the hill and bought a couple. Sure, we paid a bit more, but we were hungry and it was right there. Vacation money!
Next, we hit a wine shop that has a nine-generation lineage of wine seller and got advice on a couple of bottles of tinto verde for Jake to take home and one bottle we planned to drink as we sat on the terrace for our last night. We also went to Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest bookstore — open since 1732 — where I may have purchased a Pepa Pig book in Portuguese.
We took a short break so I could rest my weary ankles and then headed out to meet up with the food and (alcoholic) drink tour. I made a grand entrance by slipping and falling (very gracefully) to my hands and knees. I don’t think I have mentioned, but the sidewalks of Lisboa are made of small, uneven squares of limestone. Very slippery! Birks in need of resoling are not a good choice. Luckily, I didn’t hurt myself and off we went.
We started with ginjinha, which you can buy from little cafes and drink on the street IF you want to drink it. To Jake and me, it tasted like cough syrup. It is made with ginja berries, which are kind of like sour cherries, but it’s sweet and syrupy. ate (another) cod cake and learned that the one Jake had with cheese was not traditional, although it was quite tasty. The snack shops, where many Lisboans grab a quick lunch, sell many different handheld foods. João, our guide, took us to little hole in the wall places and that was great. We tried sparkly wine, tinto verde, and red wine along with the food.
At last, we had the famous pastéis de nata, an egg custard in a crunchy shell served warm and gooey. Yum!
After the food tour, we headed over to a neighborhood that was supposed to have a kind of roving street party with a woman we met on the tour. We did find a festival, but it wasn’t really our kind of music and after wandering some more, we called it a night.
Sunday: Our very last day 😦
We did make it to Sintra (one of 1,154 UNESCO world heritage sites) and it was worth it, but first we had brunch. We arrived at Quase Cafe in the windy narrow streets of Alfama just before it got really crowded and waited only a few minutes for a table. Jake and I did really well ordering a savory and a sweet breakfast. This time we got pancakes, scrambled eggs with mushrooms and cheesy pesto toast. It was a lot of food, but definitely fortified us for Sintra.
Once again, our timing wasn’t great, and we sat on the train for about 30 minutes. It did get a bit crowded and there isn’t AC so we were glad for seats, especially since masks are still required. From the train, we got on the Hop On, Hop Off bus, which has three different circuits around town. We headed for Pena Palace, mostly because it was at the top and we figured we would work our way down. If you are like me and you get seasick easily, you will not like this bus. Entry to the parks is not free, but you can buy combined tickets if you know where you want to go. Pena Palace is in a park that is worth exploring. I would say you can skip going inside the palace. It’s OK, but there are plenty of other castles and grounds to explore.
In fact, our favorite part of the castle was the Sentry Walk. The castle is built on the highest hill in Sintra and the view is spectacular. We also enjoyed wandering the gardens, which cover about three-quarters of a square mile and where five sequoias ordered by King Ferdinand are thriving among other trees from abroad.
I was very reluctant to get back on the bus, so I missed going to the westernmost spot in Europe. Oh well, next time. We took a TukTuk instead and had a much more enjoyable ride with an interesting driver. You can do a whole Sintra tour in a Tuk Tuk, but you can also take the buses or walk to a lot of spots (if you don’t mind hills). The driver dropped us in the town of Sintra, which mimics many other old European towns with narrow streets filled with restaurants and souvenir shops, and recommended we go to Quinta da Regaleira, which he said belonged to Freemasons. Carvings attest to that and an affinity toward Knights Templar and Rosicrucians. One cool feature are the initiation wells. Tourists can start at the top of one of them and walk the circular stairs all the way to the bottom, where the floor is a compass and Knights Templar cross. How the wells were used is a bit of a mystery, as you might imagine with those groups.
After exploring the grounds there, we were ready to head back. Bad train timing again, but we realized we could get on a train that was leaving in a couple of minutes if we didn’t mind taking the Metro from there. Better than waiting 50 minutes! So we hopped on, but when we hopped off, we found that the Metro was closed because of a strike. Luckily, Lisboa is full of cabs and they aren’t expensive, so we grabbed one and were back in no time.
Things didn’t turn out exactly as we planned for our last dinner. We wanted a restaurant with a view, but after some fumbling around (mostly by me), we didn’t like the place we chose and ended up at an Indian spot with a terrace that faced away from the view. Oh well. I accidentally ordered giant beers, so when we got back to the apartment, we didn’t really drink that much wine, but we did raise a glass (see below for pics of our last night). It was really good, though. Definitely no complaints!
We figure that we walked more than 80 miles and up and down hundreds of flights in our 12 days. The weather was beautiful, if a tiny bit hot in Barcelona, and all three cities are worth a visit.
Monday, we took a cab to the airport (less than 10€) and had an uneventful (thankfully) trip home.
Wow, this trip went fast! We arrived in Lisboa (Why do we call it Lisbon? A one-letter change just for the sake of it? Anyone know the real answer?) Thursday evening and hit the ground running. Our AirBnB host suggested a fado restaurant just a few blocks away, so we settled in and headed over for our 8 p.m. reservation. Maria da Mouraria is a tiny place in a converted house. There’s a three-course traditional Portuguese menu and by the time we were done with the appetizers, we were pretty full.
After each course, there was a fado performance with a singer, a guitarist, and a fado guitarist. The fado guitar is tightly strung and plucked. We heard both male and female singers. The meal (with free-flowing wine of your choice) lasted until 11:30 p.m. and was a great introduction to Lisboa.
Friday, we hit the one place that Jake had said he definitely wanted to go: the Oceanario de Lisboa. When we entered, there was an exhibit of small tanks with classical music playing. It was a perfect beginning since it set the tone for the relaxed and unhurried environment of the whole place. The center column is a huge aquarium.
My favorite was the sunfish – well and also the aquarium’s mascot who is a goofy-looking scuba diver named Vasco (of course his name is Vasco) – but the rays are always amazing to watch as they fly through the water. There are vantage points to view the main aquarium all around and everywhere the habitat is a bit different and so are the fish.
The aquarium is set up so you start at the water’s edge and move deeper into the ocean. We saw penguins, otters, amphibians, jellies, and all kinds of fish and sea creatures including a really cool octopus. We spent so much time marveling that we were very hungry by the time we finished. Luckily, the food at the aquarium is a cut above standard attraction fare.
We had opted for the combined aquarium and telecabine (cable car) ticket (speaking of tickets, always buy online even if you do it as you’re arriving – it saves so much time, but be aware that there can be complications with American credit cards or with having to input more information than seems necessary. We bought tickets while on line, but didn’t get the email, so Jake ended up going to customer service. They cleared it up quickly and we were on our way.), so after lunch we rode above the Tagus River taking in the views. From there, we walked along the Parque das Nações, which was set up for the 1998 World’s Fair.
After a short break, we had dinner at Eating Bear, which had some good veggie options and is a trendy place where they brought Jake a little grill to cook his own meat. The water suggested delicious wine and afterwards, we crossed the street and got dessert at Alice Gelato. They had a lemon-ginger sorbet that was fabulous. The strawberry and dark chocolate were amazing too. Jake basically had Nutella (chocolate and hazelnut) and tirasimu, but he said it was better than what he had eaten in Barcelona.
From there, we walked over to Hot Clube de Lisboa, which is supposedly the oldest jazz club in Europe. If you go there, be aware that it’s cash only. We had just enough for the 10€ cover charge and two bottles of (warm) water. We saw the Gileno Santana Trio. Santana is a trumpeter and after one set, Jake explained to me why they weren’t great, so we decided to leave. We were pretty tired and wanted to get up at a decent hour since our plan was to head to Sintra in the morning.
I’ll get to the weekend in the next blog. Needless to say, there was a lot of walking, food and discovery.
We had a very short stay in Madrid. We arrived in the late afternoon Tuesday and were gone by Thursday, but we packed in the fun. We had debated going on to Toledo from the train station, but decided we had had enough train for one day. Instead, we dropped our luggage, and decided on Vietnamese food for lunch, yum! On the way there, we discovered a flamenco spot and that gave us an idea. But first, we walked over to El Prado, about 20 minutes away. As you know, we like to walk and it gives us a great feeling for a city quickly.
El Prado is, well, a great, giant Spanish art museum. I was excited to see The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch (I think he is named after a literary detective, right?). Sorry, I don’t take pictures of paintings, there are much better versions online. After about an hour and a half (which seems to be a good museum limit because it gets too overwhelming after that), we headed to El Retiro park. I love a big city with a beautiful central park and Madrid did not disappoint here.
Since it was getting on 8 p.m., it was time to think about dinner. As you might imagine, tapas are abundant but we knew we were going on a food and history tour the next day, we opted out of patatas fritas. The non-tapas dinner: pizza and an Aperol spritz! We had been debating whether to go to the flamenco show and we went with our default answer: We’re here; why not? There was an option for dinner, but we skipped that. We did get appetizers and a glass of wine, because I needed more to drink after that giant mojito. The show was not what we were expecting mostly because we didn’t know what to expect. I was thinking castanets and frilly dresses. Wrong! The dance was passionate and there was a lot of stomping. We got an explanation (in Spanish and English with an Australian accent) and found that the dancers were improvising and encouraging each other as they went. The place was Las Carboneras. The venue is pretty small and intimate, which made it all the better.
The lesson: Yes is a good default answer on vacation.
Wednesday, we did our food and history tour. Our guide, Abel (accent on the second syllable), was chill and fun. We got some fun information about the founding of Madrid by the Moors (aka Arabs) and the inquisition. Here’s a hint for all you “outside Catholics, inside Jews” or Muslims: Eat the pork or you’re a goner! We got to go inside the world’s oldest restaurant in continuous operation (according to Guinness), Restaurante Botín. The oven fire never stops burning. Maybe it’s a secret eternal flame. We also learned that businesses that have been running for at least 100 years get a gold plaque on the sidewalk.
Por sopuesto (that’s of course to you non-Spanish speakers), we did a lot of eating and drinking including Spanish vermouth and tinto de verano, which is basically a Spanish wine spritzer: red wine with Fanta limon and a splash of vermouth. Very summery and refreshing. Lots of meat (for Jake), cheese, olives. Apparently vegetables are not a thing here on the Iberian Peninsula.
Our plan had been to go to Toledo (not the verb tense). The tour ran a bit long, so we hopped in a cab to get to the train station. On the way there, I tried to buy tickets and found that the train was sold out. Who wudda thought? I guess there’s a downside to spur-of-the-momenting everything. Oh well. We decided that getting to Toledo at 5:30 wasn’t worth it so we walked back the way we came, took a short break at the AirBnB and headed out to the National Archeological Museum, where we had two hours until closing time. We used both.
We did stop and have a drink and I have to say that the drinks in Madrid (at least at the place we stopped) were STRONG. Wow. Plus, I got a chance to misinterpret some Spanish, which is always fun. We couldn’t decide whether the waiter was telling us we had to leave quickly because they wanted the table for diners or that she was leaving soon and we should go inside if we wanted to order more. It was the latter. OK, good for us!
Having been all tapased out, we elected to dine on … Vietnamese food! It was delicious the first time and equally delicious the second. You may have trouble remembering the name, but if you can remember Vietnam Restaurante and you’re in Madrid, give it a try.
Thursday was a travel day. We ate a yummy breakfast at Federal Cafe, hung out in the sunshine for a bit and then headed to the airport. I forgot that you often can’t check in more than 2 hours before the flight, so we sat a bit. Then we waited on line for about 45 minutes for one issue or incident after another (thanks TAP). We weren’t stressed. Everyone was on our flight and we figured the plane wasn’t taking off empty.
We are now in Lisbon and having a fab time. Stay tuned for the Portugal edition coming soon.
Can’t go to Barcelona and not Gaudi. Sunday we hit the highlights: Park Güell and Sagrada Familia. We knew we had to go to the park, but didn’t really know what to expect. It’s beautiful and there’s even some shade. Very important in the almost solstice day sun.
We walked. You don’t have to. (More on our crazy choices to walk later.) There’s a big hill and many steps BUT there’s also a couple of escalators. There’s also a nice bus that goes right there from the corner of our street, but why would we do that? Up we marched. The entrance to the park is at 150 (492 feet); the top is at 210 meters (689 feet). No me importa. It’s good for us. Jake is young and I am planning to go to Patagonia.
Anyway, the park is amazing and very Gaudi. We wandered around and thought we should go into the Gaudi Museum, but tickets had to be purchased online (pretty common these days) and the site was being finicky, so we gave up. We use the “let’s walk this way” method of exploration. There are several different suggested routes through the park, but we chose to wander. The path is mostly circular and we got to hear some lovely salsa music near the viaducts. Gaudi was inspired by nature, tried to consider ecological needs when he designed and was not at all a fan of straight lines.
Gaudi was very religious and very political. He was a Catalan separatist who even spent a few nights in jail after being arrested at a protest. We have seen the separatist flag flying around town, but, despite some fierce opinions, Cataluña is still a part of Spain. He also was kind of a weird dude. Because he had rheumatism and his doctor suggested vegetarianism, he ended up living on lettuce, olive oil, and some nuts. In his later life, he became a recluse and his shabby attire contributed to his death. He was hit by a tram, but nobody recognized him and he did not receive adequate medical attention because people thought he was a homeless person.
From the park, we walked back down the hill and ran into a little Lebanese restaurant. Yum! There are only so many patatas bravas one can eat. Hummus and falafel hit the spot. If you happen to be in the Gracia neighborhood, give Sannin a try.
While there, we debated whether we should go inside Sagrada Familia. Yes. We should. We looked at a couple of pics online and promptly bought tickets. Wow! The light streaming through the stained glass is breathtaking. Construction on Gaudi’s masterpiece cathedral began in 1882 and was supposed to be finished in time for the centennial of his death in 2026, but Covid had other ideas.
My pictures cannot do it justice, but at least you can get some idea.
Between Gaudi jaunts, we stopped at a place I just happened to notice on the map: Plaça de John Lennon! Well worth the few extra blocks. It’s a plaza named after John with a small playground and murals. I took a few photos.
Don’t Do As I Do, Unless You Like Stairs
Today, Monday, was our last day in Barcelona. We stopped back at the La Boqueria market to wander by ourselves, since we had only been there on the tour. You really can’t beat watermelon juice that is just pressed watermelon. Yum! We walked around and took in all the foodie sites and we might even have some treats to bring home.
Steven (you remember him, he’s usually on these trips) had reminded me that there is a cable car, or telefèric, to the top of Montjuïc, where there is castle with incredible views of the city. You can take the Metro to a funicular that drops you right at the cable car. Do you think that is what we chose? If you do, you don’t know us. We walked. The market was halfway there so it made sense to us.
Today’s total, according to my semi-accurate phone health data stands at 24,160 steps, 9.2 miles, 34 floors. Not all at once, but a fair amount of climbing to the cable car.
If you are smart, you will take the funicular up and walk down (or don’t walk at all). You can also take the funicular to or from the top and only do the cable car one way (or not at all). We did the round trip and thought it was fabulous. The castle, with a separate entrance fee, offered more amazing views plus castles are cool! Mostly, you are outside the castle so don’t leave your hat and sunglasses in the locker thinking you’ll be inside like I did.
We did choose to take the funicular and Metro back. We hadn’t been on the Metro yet and we discovered that it’s very clean and easy. We had Venezuelan arepas for lunch at Tumatey. Muy rico! and finally, went to a bookstore to buy a Catalan Pepa pig book for the grandbaby. She’s going to speak many, many Pepa languages before we’re done.
After a break, we headed out for our last night and briefly debated going into Casa Batlló, which is only a couple blocks from us, but the 35€ price tag scared us off. Maybe next time.
Door-to-door for my nephew Jake, that is. He took and early flight from Chicago Midway to Dulles. I met him there, so we were both early since Steven is still on grandpa duty and he didn’t want to get stuck in DC traffic and not be at daycare on time.
Then, lightning delayed the flight two hours. No one’s fault, of course. One cool aside is that we had a woman pilot! I still don’t rate United very highly. The food on Delta is a tiny bit better (it is airplane food). My breakfast snack was the nameless grain salad they gave me with my dinner the night before since I ask for a vegetarian meal. I’m not sure why yogurt and a granola bar are not vegetarian, but ice cream with the special meal is. Or why I needed a gluten-free cookie. Don’t ask how it tasted — I didn’t try it. Jake’s food theory is that there is only one special meal and it covers all food issues. He may be right although they offer a long list of options. Also, since I’m being picky, if they are going to give out headphones for the inflight entertainment, they may want to at least make sure you can hear something through them.
We landed about an hour and 20 minutes late. We didn’t have anywhere special to be, so that was fine until we saw the immigration line. We spent two hours waiting to get into Spain. At least our luggage was waiting for us. Then we saw the cab line, sigh. However, that moved very quickly and soon we were checking in. For Jake, that was about 24 hours on the road. My assessment so far: It was worth the wait!
With time to spare, we stopped to get some caffeine and then walked over to Sagrada Familia, which Jake was immediately impressed with. Who wouldn’t be? We wandered and got the lay of the land. Everyone told me Barcelona was beautiful. So far, we’ve only gotten a small taste of it, but how can you go wrong when every time you look up, there’s a Gaudi rooftop?
Last time, after much-needed showers, we discovered that around the block from us is a wide street full of outdoor dining spots. Tapas and wine it was!
After 12 hours of sleep, we were refreshed and ready to go. We headed out toward the Picasso Museum figuring we’d find food along the way. Yes we did! We ended up at Zenith, which turned out to be a chain with cafes in Madrid and Lisbon as well. Hmmm, this may work out. The food was great. We shared shakshuka and berry pancakes. (Warning: the pancakes are SWEET, but the portions are European, so you won’t feel too bad about it.) Delicious!
Going to a museum that focuses on one artist gives a different understanding of the work. The Picasso Museum has a great collection of his early works and then uses video to show either close ups of his brush and color technique or what infrared photos showed of the paintings underneath paintings.
The highlight for us was the 1957 Las Meninas series, in which Picasso reinterpreted the same scene many times in many paintings done on the same day. The museum is housed in what were five palaces built in the Catalan Gothic style. The entrance feels like heading into the bat cave.
We spent about 1.5 hours there, but I feel like I could easily go back. Neither of us was sure how we would feel about the museum, but we figured it was a must and it was.
Next, we were off to a paella cooking class with Just Royal BCN. First, we did a tour of the famous La Bouqueria market. I love European food markets and this one was as amazing as the rest. Because we were with our chef, we got some samples and I am sure we will be back for the turron, which is sort of nougat, sort of marzipan. (Yes, Steven, you will love it!)
The class itself was led by Teresa, who was fun and a great teacher. We tasted a variety of tapas and got explanations about them, made Spanish omelets and Catalan creme plus, of course, paella. Group activities can be a lot of fun if you have a good group — and we did. Mostly Americans since it was in English, but also a man from Morocco and a woman from Jersey (the real one).
We asked Teresa what to do after the class, since it ended at 7. She suggested the jazz club just downstairs from the class, which was in in Plaça Reial. For various reasons, we ended up at a different club, Harlem Jazz Club, but it was waaaaaay too early for Barcelona, so we decided to wander. We headed over to the waterfront and just took in the sights. I know you want more photos, so see below. The building being renovated so classily with the Samsung ad hiding the scaffolding is the Catedral de Barcelona.
Finally, we were off to the Harlem Jazz Club to hear … a blues band? At first, we were a bit disappointed, but Chino & the Big Bet exceeded our (admittedly low) expectations. They were a bit bluesy, a bit jazzy, a bit swingy and Chino is full of energy. The Big Bet seems to be a revolving duo of bassist and drummer and Chino has been around the Barcelona scene for at least a decade. He speaks great English too, since the crowd seemed to be mostly English speakers.
They ended the night by leaving the stage with their instruments setting up in front of the bar and playing “Sweet Sue Just You.” Thanks! It was 2 a.m. We walked back to our AirBnB and crashed.
Surprise! We’re restless in our apartment in Baltimore, so Friday we went to DC to wander around, but first we had a very important errand. We visited the Polish consulate to apply for my EU passport. It was a bit of a disappointing experience in that the room was tiny and stuffy and the man behind the plexiglass barely spoke as he stamped away at my documents. The good news is that he didn’t ask why I speak not a single word of Polish plus we will be able stay in the EU as long as we want (if we want). Aside from that, we took a long walk and did the math in our heads about how house poor we were willing to be to live in a city. I’ll let you know if we ever figure it out.
We did have fun strolling around and noticing that every apartment that is for rent is a luxury apartment. Good for us. Who doesn’t love luxury? Do you think they come with a butler or house cleaner?
We definitely like the restaurant variety and the ability to get around by Metro. We didn’t like the traffic trying to get back to Baltimore. Apparently it’s not only construction season, but car crash season as well. We have noticed that many cities are great as long as you stay in them and don’t drive.
One downside to being out of the country is a lack of baseball, so we’re taking advantage, especially since we are three blocks from the park. We went to a game last week and then decided to hit another on Friday after DC. It was Orioles vs. Guardians (who are from Cleveland and used to be called the Indians) and we were watching a no hitter for 5+ innings (guess which team didn’t have a hit). The Orioles tried to make it a game in the eighth, but they came up short and lost 6-3. Oh well, it was a beautiful night for a game and we got free T-shirts.
Saturday, we did the digital nomad thing and hit the storage locker to swap out a few things. It’s difficult to keep track of where everything is and what climate we need to prepare for. Afterwards, we had a belated birthday dinner for Steven at a restaurant called Cypriana. The hummus was amazing, the rest of the food was fine, but uninspired. We are getting spoiled in our international travels. We aren’t “foodies” in that we don’t want fussy or overly fancy foods just simple food done well.
Today, we decided on a mini-roadtrip to Frederick, about 45 minutes west of Baltimore. It’s a cute little city with a few breweries, a bunch of restaurants and stores plus a walkway along a creek lined with more restaurants, etc. We had a delicious lunch at JoJo’s Restaurant. Getting really good vegan food around here is difficult, but my vegan power bowl was tasty. There are only so many fake burgers a person can eat! We wandered (as we are wont to do) and then got a flight of beer from Attaboy Brewery. The day was perfect: sunny, low humidity and about 80 degrees, so we were glad for the chance to put the top down on the trusty Saab and hit the road.
It was especially nice because the AC in our AirBnB is out and it was a bit balmy in here. We do have excellent hosts, however. They came by with a portable AC unit and then refunded us $200 for our trouble. Sometimes, you just meet good people.
I’m guessing the next time I write, it will be from Barcelona. I’m very excited, since I have never been there, so if you have any tips for me I’m happy to accept them. Or any for Madrid or Lisbon, too 🙂